A guide to growing garlic

Soil

Garlic needs well-drained soil. Avoid planting garlic in areas exposed to winter winds. We prefer not to mulch, but if you do, you should remove it as soon as possible in the spring to enable the seedlings to break the surface more easily. If you plan to weed mechanically over a large area, don’t use any mulch. An interesting alternative is to plant wind-breaking plants every 20 feet or so, or to install snow fencing to stop the wind, although this last method is more expensive.

Planting

Plant from September to late October. You could stretch the planting into November, but it is not recommended. The soil must have been properly tilled to rid it of perennial weeds. An early planting will allow the cloves to set down a solid root system that will provide good resistance to winter and strong growth in the spring. Don’t worry if you see green shoots in the fall.
Leave 5 to 6 inches (12-15 cm) between plants, 20 to 30 inches (50-75 cm) between rows, and plant cloves 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) deep.

Fertilization

Fertilize soil 2 or 3 months before planting, using well-decomposed organic matter (compost or poultry manure).

Watering

Throughout the growing season, garlic will need an inch of water every week. Stop watering two weeks prior to harvest.
When summer is rainy, good soil drainage is essential. If soil is heavy and not well-drained, garlic can be grown on hills, but this is not ideal.
We have observed that watering is a more important factor than fertilization as far as yield is concerned. In a well-drained clay soil, water is better conserved and watering is less critical than in sandy soil.

Weeding

Keep garlic free from weeds. The secret is to till the soil well before weed shoots break the surface or when they barely do. This light hoeing is quick and easy and does not damage garlic’s superficial roots. It also allows the soil to retain moisture.

Garlic Flowers

Harvest flowers when they’ve grown one and a half turn, before the stem straightens, generally between June 20 and 30.

Harvest

Harvest bulbs between 4 and 5 weeks after you’ve harvested the garlic flowers, generally the last week in July or the first in August. If possible, do so on a dry and windy day. External skins will be paper thin and you will be able to feel a space between the bulb and the stem. Do not wait too long, as the heads will then open and loose their nice tight shape.

Drying

With stems on or off, dry garlic in a heated facility (very important in humid weather) with good air circulation. With stem still on, bulbs will be firmer and of better quality.
When dealing with large quantities of garlic, drying is quicker and less risky if you cut off the stems and roots. If you find moulds on the stems, cut them out: a good drying will stop their progression. Handle with care! Garlic bruises as easily as apples.

Storage

Store in a dry location, maintaining humidity between 50% and 60% and the temperature between 18°C and 21°C. Music garlic will keep from one harvest to the next. Do not leave bulbs in the cold, except those you want to use for planting.
 
Good luck!